Thursday 20 May 2010

Look at the arse on that!

With a lot of help from the angle grinder and lots of yellow itchy dust i cut the new rear bodyto shape, including cuttign away the rear wheel arches as the wheel rub when using the lowered chassis. I have allowed about 50mm clearance between the tyres and body, this may be a bit close and could rub on full compression, so i think i'll pop the rear springs out and sit it down to double check before i fibreglass the planned aluminium wheel spats in place. The rear body is held on as before with 2 bonnet pins at the rear, 3 dzus fasteners across the top and a over centre latch both sides just infront of the wheels. I have also added a 8mm vertical pin in the side pods that slots into a hole on the return flange of the rear body to stop it flaring out. You may be wondering what the 2 big holes are in the rear, well they were originally 4 holes for the old lights to be fitted in, but as i'm using my existing lights which are smaller, and also plan to fix the lights to the chassis of the car i just joined up the holes. The lights will be attached to the chassis and shine through the holes in the body work, which alleviated having to disconnect the lights every time i want to remove the body work and one less connection to cause my usual lighting issues at scrutineering!


Once the rear body was in place, i could cut the old tub in half to create just the front section. I measured this a few times and left a good amount of extra body that i could trim away slowly to ensure it fitted, the last thing i wanted was a 50mm gap in the sides!!



The panels almost lapped over each other which would have been a great way to join them, but it would have left a gap at the bottom or unmatched section at the top, so i decided to stick to the original plan of rivetting a aluminium lip to the rear body that the front tub will fasten to with dzus fastners.

1 comment:

  1. The cut-outs at the back remind me of the Lola / Gardner Douglas T70. No bad thing at all that!

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